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P an-fried, deep-fried or simmered in boiling water, the humble gyoza is venerated in Japan, but nowhere more so than in Utsunomiya, whose residents have the tiny parcels of pork and cabbage to thank for rescuing their city from obscurity. The region around Utsunomiya produces large quantities of flour and nira garlic chives — two essential ingredients — while green and Chinese cabbages, pork and other ingredients are shipped in from other parts of the country depending on the season.
Last year, the residents of Hamamatsu in central Japan spent marginally more on gyoza per household than their counterparts here, sparking a fierce campaign to regain the title when the ministry of internal affairs and communications releases its annual survey of consumer habits early next year. The latter had finished top for 15 years in a row from , but the title has rotated between the two for most of the past decade.
The first gyoza restaurant opened in Utsunomiya in the early s, with Minmin , now one of the best known producers, launching its flagship restaurant towards the end of the decade. That sparked a surge in consumption and a slew of new restaurants keen to grab their share of the exploding market in dumplings. Before long, people were travelling from Tokyo and even farther afield to find out what all the fuss was about. A statue — the Gyoza Venus — was unveiled outside the railway station in , and the city held its first gyoza festival, which last year drew , people over two days.
The gyoza selection has expanded to include versions filled with cheese, fruit and sweet beans. Demand for vegetarian gyoza — made with tofu and soy beans instead of pork — is growing among foreign backpackers who stop in the city on their way to the nearby Nikko national park, according to Suzuki. They are light on garlic but heavy on cabbage, with minced pork making up only a quarter of each crescent-shaped morsel.
With only weeks to go until Utsunomiya finds out if it has wrested its title from Hamamatsu, Suzuki raises the stakes in the gyoza wars.